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have always been fascinated by surfing!

Writer: welovebigbookswelovebigbooks

I love sitting on a beach in Hawaii watching surfers do their thing! I even tried surfing once…and failed miserably…so I’ll leave it to the professionals:) I can’t wait to read this collection of surfing stories from some of the sport’s greatest! Thank you so much @tlcbooktours for gifting us this copy!

Description:

“Surfer Stories is an unrivaled collection of unique, revealing, and intimate stories about twelve of the world’s greatest surfers.

From the monstrous walls of water at Teahupoo, to the reef-scraping barrels of Pipeline, to the endless peeling break of Jeffreys Bay, legendary surfers have made their mark on surf history, distinguished by the fearlessness, grace, and artistry displayed while riding the most exalted waves.

Each surfer’s story is told by a different writer—fellow surfers, famed authors, celebrities, musicians, and surf journalists—who shares a passion for surfing. Surfer Stories offers an insightful perspective on the life of each surfer, both in and out of the water, as could only be told by the writer with whom they are paired:

Shaun Tomson on Kelly Slater

Sam George on Laird Hamilton

Holly Peterson on Robert “Wingnut” Weaver

Gerry Lopez on Garrett McNamara

Chris Carter on Shaun Tomson

Liza Monroy on Keala Kennelly

Chris Shiflett on Tom Curren

Jamie Brisick on Derek Hynd

Brett Crozier on Bethany Hamilton

Jim Kempton on Gerry Lopez

Karen Rinaldi on Rell Sunn

Selema Masekela on Michael February

The sport of surfing has a mystique and allure that has transformed many of these icons into mythical figures. Surfer Stories brings them together in one definitive collection that will appeal to those who surf and those who don’t!”



 
 
 

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